Into the hush of the Sonia Rose dining room, I roll the cart. I am dressed in the requisite tuxedo shirt with black bowtie (the easy, hook kind) and black slacks. On the cart before me is the mis en place for a Caesar salad. This is not just a salad, it’s a performance before the eager couple sitting at the white-clothed table. I am sweating, and hoping the wet underarms do not seem apparent to the eager couple.
OMI’S CAESAR
(serves 4 salads)
1 garlic clove
1 teaspoon coarsely ground black peppercorns
3 anchovies
1 coddled egg yolk (Place a room-temperature egg in boiling water for a minute. Remove and place under running cold water to stop the cooking and cool it off so you can handle it.)
1/8 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
¼ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
Juice of one lemon
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon red wine vinegar
1 head Romaine lettuce, washed and dried and ripped into pieces
½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1 cup freshly toasted croutons
Kosher salt to taste
Make the croutons first: Set oven at 425 degrees F. Cut large cubes from a French baguette or country loaf of bread to make at least a cup. Place on a baking sheet and bake until just golden brown, about 5 minutes. Cool and set aside. (I do not season my croutons because I like that they take on the flavor of and absorb the dressing once mixed in with the salad.)
Preferably in a wooden salad bowl that’s seasoned or already broken in, mash the garlic, peppercorns and anchovies together to make a paste. Add the egg yolk, Tabasco, Worcestershire sauce and lemon juice, mix well. The lemon’s acidity acts to “cook” the yolk just a little. Slowly stream olive oil, one or two tablespoons at a time into the mixture, constantly whisking with one hand so the dressing does not break (the oil separate from the yolk). Taste at ½ cup of EVOO; if the dressing is too thick (It should resemble a thick bleu cheese rather than a runny dressing), add more EVOO. Add the red wine vinegar and whisk.